Gemstones and their cut: a centuries-old craft

For us, one of the most important aspects of assessing a gemstone is the quality of its cut. So we don't only look at colour and clarity. A perfect cut is what truly brings out the beauty of a stone: it determines how light plays within it and how its brilliance is revealed. Gem cutting is a centuries-old craft that demands skill, precision and patience.

It is a specialism you don't master overnight. It takes years before a cutter can truly call himself a master. Creating that perfect sparkle is pure art.

Cutting coloured gemstones is much harder than cutting diamond. With a hardness of 10 on the Mohs scale, diamond is the hardest gemstone, but cutting other gemstones brings entirely different challenges. Their hardness varies widely: sapphire and ruby score 9 on the Mohs scale, garnets and tourmalines 7.5.

A craft of its own

A gem cutter does not become a master overnight. It takes an average of five years of intensive training before someone may work independently, and even then the most precious and complex stones are cut only by true specialists.

The process begins with a crucial decision: what shape will the rough stone become? That choice depends on factors such as colour, clarity and any inclusions. Round, oval, pear, marquise or emerald cut? The possibilities are endless. It is also decided whether the stone will be faceted, with many small facets that reflect light brilliantly, or cut en cabochon, with a smooth, domed finish and a soft glow.

Precision by feel

Once the shape is decided, cutting begins. First the rough stone is cleaved, then the table, the flat top surface, is cut. Then come the facets, one by one, with the utmost precision and largely by eye and feel. This takes a steady hand and a sharp eye, because besides the hardness of the stone, its natural inclusions must be carefully taken into account. Some inclusions enhance a stone's beauty, others make it more prone to breaking.

Respect for the craft

To experience the craft ourselves, we tried cutting a gemstone. The result? Absolutely unsellable. The experiment only deepened our respect for the craftspeople who have mastered this age-old art to perfection. Gem cutting is not just a skill: it is pure precision, experience and patience.

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Authors: Celine Roelens and Michèle Mignolet